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Operating Manual
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Daydreamer's Systems Operating ManualThis page is intended to serve as an operating manual for the systems found aboard Daydreamer. Many of these same systems are covered elsewhere in more detail ... either on this web site or in original vendor data files (owner's manuals etc.) that are kept in a file box aboard. The notion behind this page is to provide immediate guidance as to how some piece of equipment is intended to be used or how it's turned on and off, which circuit breaker controls it if electrical, etc. Ideally, persons unfamiliar with Daydreamer, such as temporary crew, can have a copy of this in-hand when they're given an orientation to the boat, then refer back to it later as a reference. (There's a lot of material here and I doubt anybody would be able to retain all of it in only a single run-through.) In spirit, it's much more like the owner's manual you find in a car's glove box than a shop manual you'll find on a garage's workbench. The Manual is broken down into the following sections:
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SAFETY/EMERGENCIES:
2) 6 man Avon life raft in hard valise mounted on companionway cover. Remove blue sunbrella cover, cut tie-down lines and throw overboard but be sure to tie inflation lanyard to boat first, then pull lanyard to inflate.
3)
2 exposure suits (aka survival suits) under the dinette seats; 1 XXL and 1 Universal
size. There are 2 life 4) 2 abandon ship bags under companionway steps in waterproof roll-top bags. Contains 406 MHz EPIRB flares (Olin 25 MM flare gun w/ flares, parachute flares, and 12 ga. flares w/ barrel insert for flare gun), SOLAS orange smoke canisters, 6+ man-days of food & water, fishing spear, hand-operated watermaker, & hand-powered flashlight. On departure, we should put the handheld VHF, spare NiCad batteries, and solar NiCad charger into the bag as well 5) 2 Float actuated electric bilge pumps in engine compartment. There are three switches on the port-side face of the sink cabinet in the galley. From top down they read “Bilge Water Alarm”, “Bilge Pump”, and no label.
- The “Bilge Pump” switch on cabinet face controls a diaphragm bilge pump. It’s a hand/off/auto switch that either powers the pump directly (Hand), turns power off (center), or sends power to a float switch (Auto). Normal position is “Auto” and the float switch for this pump is lower than the one for the high output Rule centrifugal discussed above, so the diaphragm pump comes on first with a rising bilge level. Please note that it’s easy to turn this switch off if you bump it with your hip while doing dishes. Power to this switch is controlled by a breaker on the main breaker panel.
- The third switch with no label provides power to two small small diesel pumps, one that transfers diesel from tank to tank and another pulse-type pump that can be used to bleed the fuel to either the engine or generator. 6) Manual bilge pump accessible through a brass access plate alongside the helmsman’s seat. The handle is under the helmsman’s seat lid. Buckets are in the lazarette. 7) Emergency tiller is located alongside the genset housing in the lazarette. It fits into the rudder stock under a brass access plate towards the back of the helmsman’s seat. 8) There is a humongous first aid kit under the double berth in the aft stateroom. It includes antibiotics, air splints, water-activated casting fiberglass & flannel, cervical collars, burn and eye care materials, airway tubes, suture kits, bandages, gauze, tape , rubber gloves, scalpels, etc. etc.. 9) A Jordan Series drogue is located under the double berth in the aft stateroom. In a storm survival situation at sea, this drogue can be deployed from the stern after all sails have been furled. The crew then goes below and closes all hatches, companionway included, to wait out the storm. See HERE for more detail on use of a series drogue. 10) A Hathaway, Reiser, and Raymond "Galerider" drogue can be found in the lazarette. This drogue is for use to slow down when running before a storm where the boat's speed has become too fast for conditions or when crossing a bar in breaking seas (this should only be attempted as a last resort). See HERE for more detail on use of this drogue. TOP |
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ENGINE:Starting:1) Check water level in expansion tank and oil level in engine sump (port side, down low on block) 2) In cockpit, pull silver (fuel) switch on aft side of engine control panel fully out. Low oil pressure alarm should begin to sound & glow plugs start to warm up. Check voltage indicator to confirm, a voltage below a nominal 12V indicates glow plug activation. 3) If engine is already warm, you may start immediately by pressing start button - a grey rubber-booted push button switch immediately forward of the ignition switch. If engine is cold, give the glow plugs 10 secs or so, then press starter button. Note that pressing the starter button will deactivate the glow plugs - they will not reinitialize and activate until the ignition switch (not starter button) has been first turned off then turned on again. 4) Engine should crank & fire (sometimes the start switch needs to be jiggled a bit because of dirty contacts). Use throttle (red handle to starboard of binnacle) to control idle speed. Tachometer output indicates that alternator is functioning properly. Check exhaust for proper water ejection from aqualift muffler. Allow engine to warm up before putting in gear. Shift lever is black handled lever to port of binnacle; push forward to go forward, center for neutral, and pull back for reverse. Stopping:1) Push the ignition switch in. (Note: I have at times accidentally pushed this switch in with my foot as I was stepping forward in the cockpit - the silence was deafening and most mystifying for a moment!). If under sail, put transmission into reverse to lock propeller shaft and cause prop to feather. Notes:1) Because of the upgraded alternator pulley size, the tachometer does not indicate true engine RPM but rather reads high - a conversion table is available in the log book if you are interested. 2) Limit cruising RPM to an indicated 4000 RPM; any faster will cause the engine to gradually overheat, the high temp. alarm to sound, and require you throttle back anyhow. 3) The alternator has an Ample Power 3 step voltage regulator; voltage will climb into the low 14V range as batteries are charging before dropping back to around 13.7V float level. Note that alternator output (& therefore tachometer reading) will cut off for a short time after the battery taper charging period while voltage drops back to the lower voltage float settings; likewise, the tach needle will oscillate during float charging as the regulator turns the field current on and off to maintain float voltage. 4) Many years ago, before I changed out the relay circuit box, the glow plug relay circuit didn’t activate properly and the engine would not start readily when cold. If this should happen again, an easy workaround is to jumper from the positive leg of the 12V outlet below the galley sink (see 12V discussion for description) directly to the glow plug wiring on the engine for a count of 10 - 20 secs, then operate the starter button and disconnect the jumper. 5) If for some reason the starting battery doesn’t have enough “oomph” to crank the engine, there is an emergency battery paralleling switch to tie the house battery banks into the start circuit...see 12V electrical system discussion below for location TOP |
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12V ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:1) There are 2 house battery banks & a separate, dedicated battery for engine and generator starting. Each house banks consists of two 200 Amp Hour AGM batteries for a total capacity of 800 Amp-hours; bank #1 is under the settee forward, bank #2 is under the settee aft. While each bank has a nominal total power available of around 400 amp-hrs, power consumption per bank should be limited to about 200 amp-hours before recharging. The third dedicated starting battery is below the floor boards in the aft stateroom. The house banks can be paralleled with the starting battery if needed. Either house bank can be isolated and taken out of service if need be. Or, alternatively, each bank can be set to different services (see battery switches discussion below). However, both house banks are normally run in parallel so as to minimize the current draw from any one battery or bank – which in turn maximizes both time-between-recharge and long-term battery life. 2) Voltage, amperage to/from, and state of charge for the combined house banks is monitored by a Blue Sea VSM instrument located just forward of the main breaker panel. Only voltage can be monitored for the starting battery. Detailed operating instructions for this monitor are in the vendor data file but it’s well labeled and reasonably self-explanatory. 3) Charging sources include a (nominal) 110 amp dual output alternator on the main engine, 120 amp battery charger/inverter (operable on shore power or generator), wind/tow generator, and 2 solar panels. A separate 110V-powered 40 amp charger is normally connected when on shore power. 4) Amperage from the various charging sources can also be monitored via a separate panel-mounted amp meter. You can choose to measure any one of four charging sources: ALT1 (from alternator to bank 1), ALT2 (similar, bank 2), SOLAR (solar panels), and WIND/TOW (wind/tow generator) using the switch on the small sub-panel below the Blue Sea VSM. Press the red button to get an amp reading ... if there is no current flowing, you will see a small, negative value, which should be ignored. 5) There are 2 battery select switches under the navigator’s seat as well as an emergency house bank/starting bank paralleling switch. One house bank switch (labeled “house”) selects the battery bank to be used for household (main breaker panel) power, the other (labeled “engine”) selects the bank used to power the inverter and short wave radio and, in an emergency, is paralleled with the starting bank when the red “tee” handled switch is also thrown.
7) 12V outlets are located throughout the boat - I decided to use US 230V 15 amp outlets for this service to prevent confusion with the 110V outlets. The positive pole is the sideways “T” leg (which is almost a “+” sign) while the negative pole is the horizontal (or “-“ sign) on the outlet; the ground is not utilized. There are several “cigarette lighter socket to 230V plug” adapters on the boat 8) The main breaker panel is pretty straightforward and self-explanatory - all services are labeled. TOP |
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110V ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:1) There are three alternative and mutually exclusive methods of providing 110V power; shore power via cable, generator, and inverter. Shore power or generator power source is selected by a rotary switch located next to the navigator’s left leg at the nav station; this switch is integrated into the genset starting panel. The positions of the switch are labeled as follows; pointing aft for shore power, middle (up) for a total disconnect, and pointing forward for generator. 2) Shore power is a straightforward, standard 30 amp service cable.
4) If you do have to hand crank, instructions for hand starting the genset engine can be found in the vendor data file. The engine manual does not (but should) tell you to have the start knob in the “run” position.
7) There is also a 350 watt modified sine wave inverter that we use to power the computer when underway to avoid the power overhead of the large true sine wave inverter. It is in the cabinetry immediately forward of the navigator’s feet under the big TrueSine inverter and has it’s own on and off switch. There is a breaker/switch mounted under the seat at the nav station but using it to turn off the inverter causes a fault condition and requires the the switch on the inverter be cycled the next time it’s turned on. This switch also provides power to the computer monitor, AIS receiver, and 12V powered computer. TOP |
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INVERTER/CHARGER:1) The 3 Kw Statpower Prosine inverter with 120 amp 12V DC charger is installed in the cabinetry immediately forward of the nav station and outboard of the computers. It can be accessed via a removable panel in the nav station foot space. 2) That location is well protected and minimizes battery cable run length but could cause the inverter/charger to overheat because it's enclosed. Consequently, the compartment is fitted with forced air cooling in the form of AC muffin fans that both force air in and evacuate air out. A switch by the navigator's left knee can either turn the fans on or off or on automatic, in which case a thermo-switch will turn them on if the compartment temperature rises to 107°F (or off when the temp drops to 107°F). If an extended period of battery charging is anticipated, its probably wise to just turn the fan switch onto manual rather than have the thermal switch cycle on and off.
4) The battery bank connected to the inverter may be selected using the battery select switch under the nav seat labeled "ENG" - normally both house banks are connected. 5) Two parallel Blue Seas-brand 150 amp circuit breakers (the largest commercially available) control the connection between the batteries and the inverter. These breakers are located in the compartment under the nav seat immediately outboard of the battery select switches. TOP |
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FRESH WATER SYSTEM:1) Fresh water is stored in three separate tanks, each a bit over 60 gals. capacity, located under the cabin sole. The only level measurement is via uncalibrated dipsticks in a screw fitting on the top of each tank. Tank selection for pressure water and manual pumps are made with two separate manifolds located under the cabin sole in the saloon (lift floorboard for access). Each branch of the manifold is labeled. 2) Pressure water is pumped via a Flowjet quad pump in the engine compartment; a pressure tank is included in the system so the pump need only run part time to meet small rates of consumption. The pump is fairly quiet and can’t be heard when the engine is running. The galley and aft head have backup foot pumps for fresh water on the left & salt water on the right. The forward head has hand pumps rather than foot pumps. In all cases, freshwater comes from the right hand spigot. 3) Hot fresh water can be obtained two ways; using 110V power - shore power or genset - to heat water in a bulk water heater located aft, under the double berth or by using the engine cooling water to heat fresh water in this same bulk water heater. Electric heating is straightforward, just have the breaker on when 110V power is available. Engine cooling water heat is not quite as hot as electric heating. 4) Shower drains in both the forward and aft heads are drained with dedicated sump pumps - both have switches located on the cabinet facing below the sinks. The aft head pump is wired into a breaker in the 12V panel labeled “sump pump”, which must be on for the aft sump pump to function. The forward head pump is wired into the 12V utility plug system, and that breaker must be on for it to function. Both sump pumps pull suction from small drain tanks under a catchment pan that in turn is under the floor grating. There is a small hand squeegee available to wipe down the walls after showering. TOP |
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WATER MAKER:1) The water maker is a custom designed system that allows the high pressure pump to be driven by either an electric motor or by a belt off the main engine. The pump is mounted directly to dual shaft electric motor and this assembly is in the engine compartment, to the starboard of the main engine. The control panel is behind the upper door of the aft head hanging locker while the prefilters and 2 sequential membranes are in the lower hanging locker. 2) The control panel has a pressure gauge, a flow rate meter, a switch to select the pump drive mode (electric motor or engine), a breaker to power up the electric motor, a needle valve to control the membranes’ pressure, and two selector valves. One selector valve determines if the product water goes to test or to tank. The second selector valve determines which of three tanks the product water goes to if the first valve’s selection is “tank”. 3) Reject water (salty membrane discharge) goes to the left spigot in the sink in the aft head. This allows you to visually monitor the high pressure pump’s output volume and see if it’s performance is up to snuff. If the first selector valve points to “test”, the fresh product water comes out of right spigot into the sink. This allows you to “taste test” the product water to determine if it’s quality is acceptable before diverting it into a tank of good water. 4) To start the water maker, first make sure that the prefilter inlet PVC ball valve is open, the first selector valve points to “test, and the pressure control needle valve backed off completely counterclockwise (this will allow the pump motor to start up with no load). Start the pump by; a) Moving the drive selector switch to “motor”, then throwing the 110V breaker on the control panel to “ON”, --- OR --- b) Making sure the drive belt is in place, then moving the drive selector switch to “engine” and adjusting engine speed with the throttle to an indicated 2500 RPM (actual 1750 RPM). 4) Check the reject water flow into the sink to make sure the HP pump is operating properly, then slowly close the needle valve until the pressure gauge reads about 800 psi. A slight reduction in reject water flow rate is normal at this point. Bubbles should start flowing through the flow meter, then the ball in the meter tube will lift to indicate product water flow rate. This rate should be about 30 gal/hr when stabilized. After establishing product water flow, back the membrane pressure off to about 700 psi and check the fresh water flow into the sink (right spigot). Let the watermaker run from 15 – 30 minutes, then taste the test water. If it’s “sweet” enough, change the first selector valve to tank and use the second selector valve to control which tank is being filled. 7) To turn the watermaker off, first open the 110V breaker (if it’s closed) then move the drive selector switch to “off”. This will shut off the HP pump and reject water flow will stop. Move the tank/test selector valve to the “test” position and prepare to flush the prefilters and membranes. 8) There is a two way ball valve on the prefilter outlet that allows fresh water from the pressure water system to flush the watermaker prefilters and membranes. First move the ball valve about 30-45 degrees CCW. This will allow fresh water to back flush the prefilters. When you feel the prefilters have been backwashed enough (observe the filter housings, but probably less than a minute is sufficient), complete a 90 degree rotation of the ball valve. This diverts pressure fresh water into the membranes and water will begin to flow out the reject spigot into the sink. Periodically check the salinity of this water. When it tastes “fresh”, the salt water will have been flushed from the membranes. Allow the membranes to flush for a bit longer, then return the ball valve to its original position by rotating it 90 degree CW. The pressure water will pressure up and the fw pump will shut off. Then close the needle valve and move the first selector valve to “tank”. Close the prefilter inlet PVC ball valve. |
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SALT WATER SYSTEMS:1) The marine heads are Lavacs – simply close the lids, insert the pump handle and pump away at least 20 pump strokes. I will be glad to demonstrate their use if needed. The boat is equipped with a holding tank and the head discharges can be set up for overboard discharge or diverted to the tank if required. 2) The aft head and galley have salt water foot pumps (on right) that discharge through left-hand spouts. The forward head has a salt water hand pump on the left. 3) There is a wash down pump installed in the engine room with a hose bib on deck forward, just aft of the port side storage area hatch. The pump has a pressure switch and is wired into the same breaker as the aft shower sump pump. To turn on, simply turn on the breaker; you’ll probably hear one or two pulses as the pump pressures up the wash down piping. Comes in real handy when weighing anchor and the chain comes up muddy. |
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ELECTRONICS:1) Sailing instruments (depth, wind speed/direction, knot/log) readouts are located above the companionway and are electrically switched in 2 places. First is a breaker labeled “Electronics” - I normally leave this breaker on. The depth sounder is switched on/off and controlled (feet/meters/ fathoms and alarm depth) from a remote readout at the nav station, directly above the VHF radio. I usually leave the depth sounder on while at anchor as an alarm in case the anchor drags. Note that the depth sounder has a keel offset and measures the water depth under the keel, not from the surface. The knot/log and wind instrument is switched on/off by a toggle switch at the nav station located in a remote log readout a bit above the navigator’s left ear. A rheostat in this small panel controls illumination for these instruments. There is a separate forward-looking sonar at the helm, an Interphase PROBE. This unit can display a profile of the sea bottom ahead. The look-ahead distance is limited to roughly 3 times the depth under the boat with a maximum of about 1/4 nm. 2) A VHF radio is located at the nav station. Power is controlled by the “Radio” breaker. There is a remote wireless mike for this radio mounted in the cockpit. The handheld VHF is usually kept in a small holster mounted on the countertop. 3) GARMIN GPS 152 is located at the nav station and powered from the “GPS/VHF Charger” breaker. The manual for this GPS is usually found on top of the nav station depth meter. There is a separate battery-operated Garmin GPS 55 hand-held unit in the nav station desk as backup. 4) Furuno 1623 Radar also located at nav station - controlled by “Utility outlet” breaker. Instruction manual in the vendor data files. 5) ICOM M710R/T HF radio control head is located at nav station - instruction manual in the vendor data files. The control head is controlled by the “Radio” panel breaker, the main radio is powered directly from the “Engine” selector switch under the navigator’s seat. 6) The main autopilot control box (W-H w/ Autohelm 5000 linear drive) is located at the top of the companionway, starboard side. It is controlled by a dedicated breaker labeled “Autopilot”. A remote control can be plugged in at at the helmsman’s position or at the top of the companionway. Turn on by rotating the lower center switch first to "Standby", then to "AP ON". In Standby, the autopilot will take a moment to find the boat's magnetic heading, which will then show in the small window. The rudder may be controlled directly when in Standby by pushing the RED (to port) or GREEN (to starboard) buttons. The rudder does not re-center in this mode but rather stays in the position it was moved to using the red/green buttons. The rudder may be centered by momentarily putting the main switch into the AP On position. Moving the switch to AP ON (or REMOTE if the remote control is plugged in) will cause the autopilot to control the rudder so as to maintain the magnetic heading set point that's in the autopilot main control, established when the switch was momentarily in the standby position. The magnetic heading set point may be changed by 10° to port/starboard using the RED/GREEN buttons or by 1° using the "Course Change" momentary switch between the Red and Green buttons. Detailed instructions for operating the autopilot can found in the owners manual. 7) A 12V-powered computer is installed immediately forward of the navigation station. For a detailed discussion, see HERE. There is a tray near the top of the computer compartment that has a small muffin fan mounted on it along with a switch for the fan. We normally run the muffin fan whenever the computer or inverter/charger are running to help locker ventilation. The printer is located in the forward portside stateroom lower hanging locker. Hooking up requires stringing cable all over the place; a bit awkward but it does work. We also have a flat bed scanner stored in the forward starboard stateroom hanging locker along with our vendor data files. If we need to scan anything, we just pull it out and set it up at the nav station. |
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ANCHORING:1) Bower anchor is a 60# CQR on 350 ft of chain rode. To release, back off the friction head on the top of the anchor windlass, pull out a short section of chain, and push the anchor stock through the anchor roller housing until the anchor starts to fall freely. Control the amount of rode and tension by tightening/loosening the friction head on the windlass. There is a chain counter on the windlass (a red pointer) that is calibrated to read 180 ft. of rode per full revolution or 30 ft per mounting screw. To weigh anchor, turn on the windlass switch (upper right on breaker panel, on brass plate), then go forward to the windlass and step on deck-mounted switch. The rode ought to come right up and self-stow in the chain bin. You will most likely have to open the port storage area hatch and periodically push the stacked chain over using the boat hook. Use the washdown pump and hose (under dinghy) to rinse off the chain and anchor, if needed. There is a handle for manual winch operation on the floor of the forecastle, just in case. I’ve never had to use it. 2) An anchor spring line harness is stowed in the forward storage area above the washing machine. To use it, the slotted metal plate in the middle of the harness is placed over a link in the anchor chain forward of the roller. One section of line from the plate is brought back on each side of the boat and through the forward hawse holes. The lines are positioned so the chafe-protected portion of the harness rests in the hawse and the line tails made fast to the cleat horns of the hawses. Chain is then let out slowly until the spring line harness takes the anchor load rather than the windlass. Excess chain is then pulled out from the windlass and allowed to hang from the bow roller. 3) There is a backup danforth-pattern anchor lashed to the pushpit; anchor rode for this anchor is the “Ankarolina” flat webbing that is wound up into a flat spool and mounted on the pushpit, starboard side. This webbing is also used for jacklines while making passage. 4) There is a huge Fortress FX-125 anchor located under the double berth in the aft stateroom. This anchor is for extreme storm conditions and is normally kept disassembled. There is a 1 1/8” double braid nylon anchor rode stored in the same spot that is also configured as a series drogue and it might be useful as an anchor rode in a pinch.. 5) Lastly, there is a small lunch hook in the lazarette in the form of an 11# Bruce, 5 ft of chain and a bit less than 600 ft of about 5/16” three strand line spooled into a bucket. I bought this for halibut fishing in deep water and find that it works well, within the limits of permissible loading for this small gear. 6) The masthead anchor light is turned on and off from the illuminated switch next to anchor windlass breaker panel switch. This switch sends power to the masthead anchor light which also has a built-in sensor that will turn the anchor light on and off as the sun sets and rises. The switch is illuminated when the anchor light is powered, whether or not the light sensor is providing power to the anchor light. The light "bulb" in the masthead anchor light is actually a high-output white LED. If both the anchor light and masthead tricolor are turned on simultaneously, the anchor light will "strobe". |
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SAILS:1) The mainsail is full batten with lazy jacks. The lazy jacks are really handy but require you to hoist the main with the wind from near dead ahead or the battens can get hung up in the lazy jacks (or, alternatively, you could loosen the lazy jacks and carry them forward). Access to the head of the mainsail to clip in the halyard requires climbing up the mast a bit, so I’ve installed 2 foldout steps on the forward side of the mast along with matching hand holds. There is a second, hollow cut battenless main in a sail bag in the forecastle. The full batten main uses Harken Battcars with a special track, so the battenless main would have to be run up in the sailtrack intended for the storm trysail, to port of the mainsail track. 2) The staysail is hank-on and in the ready bag clipped on the inner forestay, complete with sheets. 3) A high-cut yankee is roller furled on the forestay 4) There is a light air genoa-cut drifter kept in separate bag in the forecastle. It has a low-stretch kevlar line luff and is hoisted free-flying inside a snuffer. I usually clip the tack to a snap shackle found below the yankee furling drum and the head to the spare halyard. A short line with parrel beads and plastic snap shackles goes around the yankee (and the yankee’s sheets) and clips to the halyard snap shackle eye above the swivel. This way, you can hoist or lower the drifter in a fair amount of wind without the head getting away. It helps, in lowering, if another person can pull the loose middle of the sail aft. Occasionally, the parrel bead rope loop gets hung on the yankee sheets where they wrap around the yankee; in this case, slack the drifter halyard a tad and turn the furled yankee a bit so no knots are in the way. To furl, just reverse the process. Once hoisted, reeve the sheets and simply pull the snuffer up the luff (as you would with a spinnaker) to fly the drifter. The inner forestay does have a quick release to get it out of the way, but I normally don’t bother. 5) There is a cruising spinnaker inside a sail bag in the forecastle. This sail is also in a snuffer. The tack line is run through the spare anchor roller and back to the anchor windlass, then to one of the forward cleats. It is hoisted using either one of two spinnaker halyards. The sheets are run outside all lifelines and standing rigging aft to blocks on the cap rail, thru the turning blocks and to the winches. NOTE: the spinnaker is never tacked but always gybed so the sheet that will become the lazy sheet when the sail is unfurled needs to pass forward of the outer forestay. There is a ratchet block on the snuffer line that needs to be clipped to a stanchion base. This allows the foredeck hand to keep the snuffer under control when hoisting and makes snuffing much easier when a breeze is up. 6) There is a storm trysail that, when on passage, is normally kept on deck in a sailbag immediately aft of the mast, slugs in the track and ready to fly. A companion storm jib is stowed in the forecastle. 7) I run a full main and drifter/spinnaker up to about 8-10 knots of apparent wind, then drop the drifter and go to Yankee and Staysail. I’ll furl the Yankee at around 20 knots, then reef the main in 2 steps as the wind picks up further above around 27 knots and low 30’s. |
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DINGHY:1) There is one dinghy on board, an aluminum RIB. It can be stowed on the foredeck in chocks either upside down (for passages) or right-side up, with or without the outboard mounted, which is very convenient when coastal cruising in a protected area. 2) The dinghy is powered by a 15 hp Mercury outboard motor that is normally stowed on a mount in the forward storage area. It can be lifted out through the deck hatch using a spinnaker halyard and placed on the dinghy transom while the dinghy is still on deck. Fuel tank(s) and hoses are kept in the anchor well at the bow; the anchor chain has to be loose to allow the anchor well hatch to be lifted. This outboard is a bit unusual in that shifting is done by rotating the throttle handle clockwise or counterclockwise for forward & reverse. Turning the handle further in the respective direction increases the throttle. To start, first be sure that the "Run/Stop" switch where the safety lanyard can be attached is on "Run". Pull out the choke fully and pull the starter rope. When the engine catches, push the choke button in and take off. Rotate the choke button to speed up or slow down the idle If I’m traveling any appreciable distance and towing the inflatable, I will normally stow the outboard. It is important to run the outboard out of gasoline before putting it below decks, so I usually start the motor, get it warmed up, then disconnect the fuel line and run the motor in reverse until it runs out of fuel and dies (keeping the dinghy tied to the boat all the while of course). |
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AMENITIES:1) 12V flat panel TV with set top box and DVD player tape player. 2) AM/FM/CD/Cassette player stereo with remote control. Speakers are in both saloon and cockpit. The computers can also play MP3s through the stereo. 3) The refrigerator/freezer is set up with two holding plates in the freezer section. Each holding plate has its own dedicated compressor and sea water condenser mounted under the aft dining area seat. Each compressor/condenser/holding plate is independent of the other, sharing only the condensing water pump, so redundancy is high. The compressors are hermetically-sealed 110V units and may be operated simultaneously from either shore power or generator or individually from the inverter. It’s best to not start the compressors at the same time to minimize electrical surge loads. There are two muffin fans under the sink that run whenever their corresponding compressor is operating to prevent heat accumulation in the compressor space. The refrigeration section is separated from the freezer by an insulated panel and kept cool by conduction and “cold spill-over” from the freezer. The control panel for the refrigerator/freezer is on the bulkhead to the port side of the countertop that forms the top of the reefer. There is a readout in the panel for the bulk freezer temperature along with several switches. The small rocker switch in the lower left hand corner of the panel controls a small forced-convection fan in the freezer. The two rotary switches control the compressors for the two holding plates.
The rotary switches
each control one compressor/holding plate, labeled “Aft Plate” and
“Forward Plate” to correspond to the appropriate holding plate in the
freezer. Each switch has 5 positions, labeled (from full CW); “Air
Conditioning”, “Off”, “Off”, “Auto”, and “Hand”. The air
conditioning is not yet hooked up, so stay away from that switch position.
The two “off” positions are self explanatory. If a switch is in the
“Auto” position, the corresponding compressor will be turned on and off by
a temperature switch in the freezer compartment. This switch
position is only appropriate when plugged into shore power and will allow
the freezer will take care of itself, turning on and off as required.
The temperature switches are adjustable but have been set to turn on at
about 13 F and off at about 8 F and no further adjustment is needed. A switch in the “Hand” position will turn the corresponding compressor on and it will then keep running until it is turned off or shut down by a low-pressure safety switch (i.e. REALLY COLD in the freezer). The system is designed to be run about 1 hour per day under tropical conditions (both compressors). While away from the dock, we normally run the generator for 1 (or 2) hours per day which is usually sufficient to recharge the batteries, heat up the hot water tank and pull down the holding plates. When motoring and with batteries fairly well charged up, we have found that we can run one compressor at a time via the inverter and do a good job of pulling down the holding plates in 2 hours. The 12V breaker labeled “refrigeration” supplies power to the remote thermometer on the control panel, the controls, and the condenser salt water pump. (This pump also serves as the watermaker prefilter boost pump.) The refrigeration 110V breaker supplies power to the compressors. 4) Dickinson Antarctic Heater - puts out around 16,000 BTUs per hr and can flat drive you out. To start, open the needle valve at the base of the heater fully (to 5) and open the fuel stop cock mounted in the baseboard just to starboard of the heater (i.e. put handle vertical). Open the access plate in the top of the heater and look inside to check the burner at bottom of the heater. When you see the bottom just getting a bit damp w/ diesel, tear off a strip of paper towel about 3 or 4” wide and stuff it inside the heater down around the burner and use it to soak up some of the diesel - this will be your starting wick. Light the diesel-wet paper towel with a match, replace the access plate, turn the needle valve setting to about 1 or 2, and observe the fire inside through the isinglass window. There is a heavy piece of wire with an alligator clip hung behind the ceramic tile heat shield that is very handy for stuffing paper towels and inserting lit matches. When the fire appears to have caught and stabilized, turn on a multi-speed blower using the rotary switch on the baseboard behind the heater to port. Start off with the slowest speed (first click) then progressively increase the blower speed by two more clicks until the fire is quite hot and the diesel is vaporizing easily in the burner. At that point and unless you are under sail, you may turn off the blower and the heater will take care of itself. If sailing, keep the blower going to avoid back winding and maintain draft. Temperature can be grossly regulated by use of the calibrated needle valve. To shut down the heater, close the needle valve and stop cock The heater is fueled from a day tank located in the oilskin locker in the aft head. There is a sight glass that can be checked with a flashlight to observe level. If the level is getting low, the tank may be filled by the diesel transfer pump located immediately aft of the fuel filters. The two-way valve there is rotated so the handle points to the center of the boat and the pump controlled by two switches in series. The first switch is below the "Bilge Pump" switch, the second switch is outboard on the upright wooden support by the fuel filters. The pump should operate when both switches are on, in which case the lower switch will glow red. While the day tank has on overflow connection into the port diesel tank, the tank vents near the top of the companionway and a high rate of flow from the pump might be too much for the overflow connection to handle, so keep the level in the day tank under periodic observation when filling the tank. 5) Stove w/ oven has spark ignition. Turn on stove propane solenoid, depress and turn burner knob until click is heard. The click should cause a spark to ignite the burner and the knob turned to control burner setting. If the burner does not ignite, turn knob off, then repeat. The the aft burner, oven and broiler are best lit with a “butane match” as the spark ignition does not seem to be reliable. You must close the oven door slowly to avoid extinguishing the oven flame. Note that the oven thermostat is calibrated in degrees Centigrade. Turn off burners and switch off the propane solenoid when through. 6) Propane grill mounted aft on pushpit rail with dedicated propane bottle connected to BBQ with hose. Alternatively, you may use small propane canisters to fuel the grill. Open the propane tank valve, light the burner with a butane match, adjust the heat setting for the dish to be grilled and close the grill to preheat. After things are heated up a bit, use some crumpled aluminum foil or the grill brush to clean the grill then cook away. 7) A washer/drier is installed in the forepeak, to starboard. The owner’s manual is in the vendor data file box but operation is fairly straightforward. Put dirty clothes in the tub along with about half the detergent you would use with a top-loading washer, close the door, and turn the timer knob to the proper setting. Push the “ON” button and it will take care of wash, rinse, and spin cycles. The drier function does work but much slower than a home machine and with a large power consumption, so we normally just dry the laundry on the life lines. 8) We have a full set of sun awnings with side curtains. While they are not particularly complicated to set up and strike, their deployment is more easily demonstrated than described in writing. |
6)
3) The
inverter/charger is controlled by a panel to the immediate left of the nav
table. On and off switches for the inverter and charger are clearly
labeled and will, as you might suspect, turn these functions on or off.
Full explanation of the inverter and its control panel can be found in the
vendor data file.